Saturday, December 1, 2007

Australia & New Zealand Trip Update from Dave Kimber on November 12, 2007

Castle hill is tight. so many amazing boulders and problems. the only real problem is that flock hill and dry valley are closed for lambing. that part sucks, since there's so many incredible tempting lines there that we can see from the road. of course, this is tempered by the fact that there are still about 4000 problems in spittle hill and quantum field alone. the bouldering is intense. i climbed really strong in the grampians, but this is totally different. it's all push-friction on glassy footholds with condition-dependant slopers to hold you on. i think i'm -finally- getting it though. i definitely climb a few grades lower here than what i'm used to haha :)
Anyway, gotta split. rest day today, and we're sharing the internet with each other at the flock hill B&B/backpackers. plus it costs like $1 for 10 minutes. this place is actually a bit expensive, though there are deals to be found. i'm writing all the logistics down for both the gramps and castle hill in separate guides that i'll post on the blog. the info they give you on the web blows ass. we've had to just figure it all out ourselves, and something like i'm going to write would have been invaluable.

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Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Lifestyle Update: Climbing In The Grampians

Hey all! This is DK with a quick personal note about what is going on with me now. I'm currently in the town of Horsham at their local library checking email and surfing porn. A bit of a trick since my screen is in direct line of sight with the two prim-and-propers running the joint, but hey, I'm all about expanding horizons.

Anyway, my skin is thrashed. And for good reason since I've been throwing myself wantonly at the gorgeous boulders here in the Grampians. The rock is unbelievable. It is literally like a cross between Hueco and Font. Smooth, brain-bubbled sandstone with large crazy scooped-out features and mostly overhung. The rock sometimes has the color of pumpkin pudding just-stirred and looks intense in the setting sun. My plan is to include a guide for camping and dirtbagging it here around the Gramps soon (within the next week or two). If you haven't experienced it, then by all means, try and make it happen.

Also, what can I say about Hollow Mountain Cave (HMC)? Plenty actually but it would just be verbal jisming all over the screen. I'll settle for telling you that it is one of the most amazing rock features I've ever witnessed. The Wheel of Life (rated V16 by Dai Koyamada) is truly a wonder to behold. There are several 'lines' that come out of the cave, but in reality most of them are simply pieces of WoL. To string the whole thing together must have taken tendons of steel, and the endurance of a god. Please, some of you badasses come out here and repeat that thing! Chris Parsons is -very- close to doing it so I'd expect news on that front very soon.

In addition to HMC and the many problems that it offers (not just the WoL and pieces) there are several other climbing spots to enjoy, with many lines and boulders still yet to be explored. Plus, there's routes for those of you so inclined. They're 'ok'. Haha. But what do I know, I'm just a pebble-pusher. Let someone else gush about how awesome they are.

Alright, 9 minutes to go on my daily 2 hour library internet allowance. Signing off for now...

the intrepid, DK

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