climbnation

Lifestyle: Logistics of Climbing in Castle Hill, New Zealand

2007-12-06T14:21:00.000-08:00

Lifestyle: Logistics of Climbing in Castle Hill, New Zealand

What more can be said of Castle Hill? It is truly a place that has to be experienced, and is without a doubt one of the premier climbing destinations of the world. Here I'll give you a snapshot of what myself and my friends did to manage it relatively cheaply, given the conditions and time we were there.

Season: Without a doubt wintertime is best in CH. Hardcore locals won't even seriously touch the rock there unless there is snow on the ground and cold temps. The limestone is merciless when heated by the sun and you will be sorely tested to send problems that you magically floated up when it was chillier.

That said, we climbed there at the very end of the season, during the month of November. If you find yourself in this situation, you are best served by getting up relatively early and climbing in the morning while the rock is still cold from the night. Then you can hang out during the noon portion of the day, and get back to business in the evening. Days were long during this time, and it was light outside until around 9:30pm, and is climbable until well after with headlamps.

Another note about climbing during this time: Flock Hill and Dry Valley are inaccessible during this period (until around December 15th or 25th depending for lambing. Don't even think about trying to sneak in, and the locals are adamant about obeying these rules strictly. As well they should be since there have been rumblings of access issues due to some unscrupulous climber-types. Don't worry though, Spittle Hill and Quantum Fields have over 4000 problems to unlock, and some of the best classics in CH are found in those 2 areas.

Accomodations: If you aren't really on a budget, there are several options around. Castle Hill Village has full-on cabins you can rent out for an average of NZ$100 a night. So, get 4-6 people together and that's about what you'd pay at a hostel. If you can stand that kind of proximity and lack of privacy.

Also, you could probably stay in Christchurch and commute the hour-ish ride out. Christchurch has more hostels than you can shake a stick at but we stayed at two that were excellent.

BASE Backpackers (http://www.basebackpackers.com/christchurch.htm): This is a chain establishment that has the business of sheltering travelers down to a science. Located in the center of Christchurch right at 56 Cathedral Square they are recognized by the large red X icon. They have everything you need; showers, dorm rooms (around NZ$26 a night for a dorm-style room), with fluctuating rates season-depending), laundry, downstairs bar (Heaven & Hell), and internet room. This is a busy place, full of younger travelers so expect the noise level to be on the high side. Phone: +64 982 2225

Foley Towers (http://www.backpack.co.nz/foley.html): Our favorite spot. Located at 208 Kilmore just a few blocks from the center of town. All the amenities, and a decent rate (NZ$22 a night for a dorm-style room, even cheaper if you spring for the BBH Card, which you can purchase at the front desk). A bit calmer environment, with a peaceful courtyard, full kitchen for cooking needs, internet, dining room, etc. etc. It just has a great vibe there, and the travelers are mostly European (so way cooler than us loud-mouthed Americans).

Camping: For those who are interested in going on the cheap, we camped at Craigieburn Shelter for the duration of our stay. This spot is accessed by driving out from Christchurch (see Getting There below). Just drive about 10k past where the climbing is and you'll see a turnoff labled 'Craigieburn Shelter'. Everyone warns you not to leave your tents up, but we did. We were just careful to find a spot off the road at the shelter. The main reason for the warnings though is because of the resident Kea birds. We battled this destructive prankster with hard plastic food bins, but still endured early morning foraging, and some chewed up camp chairs. Check online for info on this dastardly parrot, but don't think about killing it; it's protected! You'll grow to love them as much as you hate them, the cheeky bastards. However, if you do get all your stuff stolen, I take no responsibility. This is a 'Do At Your Own Risk' option.

Nonetheless, it's free, and they have a toilet and the aforementioned shelter for hanging out in and cooking.

Shopping: If you are staying for at least a month or so you will be cooking to stay on a budget. Here are your best options:

Four Squares in Darfield: This small grocery is located between Christchurch and Castle Hill. If you don't fancy driving the whole way and only need a few things this place will serve you well. Look for 'Pams' label brand as this is the generic 'cheap' brand (Pams Nutella ripoff rules!). Additionally do NOT miss the Darfield Bakery for anything on their menu. Delicious and priced reasonably.

Pak N' Sav in Christchurch: The mega-shopping mart. There are actually 2 in Christchurch, but the easiest one to hit up is the one on Riccerton since that is the road you end up on when you go straight into Christchurch from Castle Hill. They have everything you need, including the aforementioned Pam's brand items. Don't forget to go on Tuesdays, as everything in Christchurch is cheaper on Tuesdays (well, most things, including the cinemas).

Getting There: Likely you will fly into Christchurch to get to Castle Hill. If you are renting a car and driving straight out from the airport you will head south on Russley Road (Rt 1) and then hang a right heading west on Yaldhurst, which becomes 73. You will reach Spittle and Quantum first in about an hour. Those crags are accessed easily by a pullout on the side of the road with a double gate area (there is an informational plaque there as well to read). Flock Hill and Dry Valley are accessed via the Cave Stream pullout about 3-4 more kilometers up the road on the right.

Well, that's about it for the bare-bones info. If anyone has anymore questions about going about climbing in Castle Hill that the vast powers of the Interweb can't solve, then feel free to post a comment and I'll include relevant info into the main body here.
So, this is a destination well worth checking out. The possibilities are endless and the climbing will both humble and titillate. One of the top 5 spots in the world I've been to, so go give it a go!

-kimber

Australia Photos

2007-12-01T12:35:00.000-08:00

All Photos By Adam Lincoln

New Zealand Photos

2007-12-01T12:06:00.000-08:00

Photos By Adam Lincoln

Australia & New Zealand Trip Update from Dave Kimber on November 12, 2007

2007-12-01T11:55:00.000-08:00

Castle hill is tight. so many amazing boulders and problems. the only real problem is that flock hill and dry valley are closed for lambing. that part sucks, since there's so many incredible tempting lines there that we can see from the road. of course, this is tempered by the fact that there are still about 4000 problems in spittle hill and quantum field alone. the bouldering is intense. i climbed really strong in the grampians, but this is totally different. it's all push-friction on glassy footholds with condition-dependant slopers to hold you on. i think i'm -finally- getting it though. i definitely climb a few grades lower here than what i'm used to haha :)

Anyway, gotta split. rest day today, and we're sharing the internet with each other at the flock hill B&B/backpackers. plus it costs like $1 for 10 minutes. this place is actually a bit expensive, though there are deals to be found. i'm writing all the logistics down for both the gramps and castle hill in separate guides that i'll post on the blog. the info they give you on the web blows ass. we've had to just figure it all out ourselves, and something like i'm going to write would have been invaluable.

Hand Care for Climbers

2007-12-01T11:49:00.000-08:00

You look down at your hands, marveling at their rhino-like thickness. Experimentally you hover your yellowed, thickened pads over the flame of your campstove burner, roaring at a temperature roughly equivalent to that of the earth's molten center. The pads darken slightly in response, but you feel no pain. Oh yes. Then the next day you rip off a pocket in an overhanging face, and one of your callous pads catches on the vicious lip and rips off to the pink, vulnerable skin underneath. Doh!

It turns out that those thick, elephantine callous buildups on your fingers aren't exactly the best thing for you, as a climber. When the corn-like swells appear it is usually the cause for celebration by newer climbers that think the days of plastic-scoured tips are over. The callouses have arrived Mr. Johnson, rejoice, for yee shall suffer no more! Well, not exactly.

Yes, callouses are an integral part of climbing. The protection they afford is invaluable, and allows you to climb much longer and on much rougher surfaces that you normally could with your previously baby-pink mitts. However, letting them build up too much can cause other problems to crop up. They form thorny ridges on the insides of your fingers, and bulbous buildups on the joints of your fingers. These then in turn create little malleable skin clusters that greedy, sharp rocks will snag onto and unceremoniously shred right off, often down to the moist, vulnerable skin a few layers deeper than your normal skin layer. Additionally those buildups can dry and crack, causing painful splits in areas where you need to make direct contact with the rock.

However, all is not lost. With a little bit of diligent care, you can have tough grips that stand up to any day of hard climbing, and also won't give your hands what your feet look like they have: unsightly, and potentially climbing-trip-ending corns.

Necessary Tools

Sanding block or pad (about 160-220 grit will do, sold at painting supplies stores)

Climbon or Monkey Skin (or regional equivalent)

Neosporin

Band-Aides

Sanding the Skin

The idea here is to sand down your calluses so that they are uniformly smooth with the rest of your skin surface. You don't want to sand down to the normal skin layer, you just want the irregularities that can snag on the rock to be taken away. This allows you to climb on your calluses but reduces the chance that you'll rip a flapper. Gentle back-and-forth passes over the thicker calluses with the thicker grit sandpaper can take away the unevenness, and then the finer grit can be used to smooth it out. I've found that the peskiest calluses happen just under the first joint of my index, middle, and ring fingers. I can tell by bending the finger joint and looking at a sideview. Instead of the skin folding over, there is a callus gap that prevents the fold. This area is usually the first victim of a split, since the snag will happen just at the joint bend, and we all know how difficult it is for splits in joints to heal. Try to make sure that you give this area a good sanding pass too. If you've built up those calluses for a long time without sanding, you probably won't get it all even in the first go. In fact you probably shouldn't since overdoing it will result in too-thin skin. Just get the ball rolling with an initial go, and the pay attention to where the build-up occurs the most compared with where you get any tears or flappers the most.

Skin Balms and Salves

Climb-on (or equivalent) is fantastic for repairing skin overnight. Just apply it liberally over the tips of the skin and on any tears or rips you've acquired throughout the day's climbing. I've found it is best to do this just before I go to sleep to allow it to really soak into the skin, so I'm not doing other things that will wipe the material off.

Another sure bet for serious tears is to apply some Neosporin over the area and then a Band-Aid overnight. All the bacteria that was feasting on your cut will be destroyed and the healing process can occur all night long. Try not to wear the Band-Aid throughout the next day though, because you want oxygen to help with the healing during the day as much as possible. These method has (at the insistence of my nurse friend) helped me to much speedier recoveries from skin injuries, and got me back on the rock much faster.

Time and Rest

Another thing to stress on the heels of this advice is the time-honored method of, well, time. It heals all wounds and as hard as it may be to resist, taking an extra rest day to allow for the skin to heal up can work wonders.

So, if you can endure the jeering of your friends calling you a 'poofter' for giving yourself a loving manicure before a day's session, you'll have the last laugh as you continue climbing strong on solid skin while they whine about their bloody flappers and almost-sends. Good luck and good climbing!

Lifestyle Update: Climbing In The Grampians

2007-10-09T19:32:00.000-07:00

Hey all! This is DK with a quick personal note about what is going on with me now. I'm currently in the town of Horsham at their local library checking email and surfing porn. A bit of a trick since my screen is in direct line of sight with the two prim-and-propers running the joint, but hey, I'm all about expanding horizons.

Anyway, my skin is thrashed. And for good reason since I've been throwing myself wantonly at the gorgeous boulders here in the Grampians. The rock is unbelievable. It is literally like a cross between Hueco and Font. Smooth, brain-bubbled sandstone with large crazy scooped-out features and mostly overhung. The rock sometimes has the color of pumpkin pudding just-stirred and looks intense in the setting sun. My plan is to include a guide for camping and dirtbagging it here around the Gramps soon (within the next week or two). If you haven't experienced it, then by all means, try and make it happen.

Also, what can I say about Hollow Mountain Cave (HMC)? Plenty actually but it would just be verbal jisming all over the screen. I'll settle for telling you that it is one of the most amazing rock features I've ever witnessed. The Wheel of Life (rated V16 by Dai Koyamada) is truly a wonder to behold. There are several 'lines' that come out of the cave, but in reality most of them are simply pieces of WoL. To string the whole thing together must have taken tendons of steel, and the endurance of a god. Please, some of you badasses come out here and repeat that thing! Chris Parsons is -very- close to doing it so I'd expect news on that front very soon.

In addition to HMC and the many problems that it offers (not just the WoL and pieces) there are several other climbing spots to enjoy, with many lines and boulders still yet to be explored. Plus, there's routes for those of you so inclined. They're 'ok'. Haha. But what do I know, I'm just a pebble-pusher. Let someone else gush about how awesome they are.

Alright, 9 minutes to go on my daily 2 hour library internet allowance. Signing off for now...

the intrepid, DK

How to Read a Climbing Route or Boulder Problem

2007-10-05T09:03:00.000-07:00

Many times I watch a climber get on the wall, be it a boulder problem or a route, and storm up a few moves only to stop and begin poking forward with their nose, straining in one position trying to figure out where the hell to go next. Often this results in a sequence-botching, a wasted use of energy, and a defeated plummet to terra firma. Then they get right back on and do it again.

The best way to avoid this unnecessary expenditure of energy and to achieve success faster is to read the route from the ground. Here are some tips that you can use to make this happen:

1. Use your hands to pantomime a route sequence*. Literally climb the route from the ground imagining exactly how your hands will move, and to what holds they will go from move to move. Also determine where your feet will go. This is a form of visualization or imprinting, and even if you don't have a photographic memory, your body will recall the sequence a lot better than if you didn't try this method. *This is often called ghosting and will potentially subject you to much pointing, smirking, and oral abuse from your 'friends,' but it does work for many people.

2. Isolate the crux(s) of the climb. After you have pantomimed the route you should have a pretty good idea where the hard part will be. Knowing this will allow you to figure out when/if/where you need to rest for a moment prior to the sequence before launching yourself into it. In a restful position you should have your arms straight, and the weight on your feet as much as possible. Also, you should be able to release one arm at a time and shake out any built-up lactic acid (that 'pumped' feeling).

3. Many times on a route there will be rests that allow you to reset and regroup. As a result, it's not necessary to memorize every sequence from the bottom to the top. Instead, break the route into sections separated by rests. In lieu or a rest, any hold that is big enough to match hands will give you the opportunity to reset. It's much easier for your brain to compartmentalize a route into small chunks and recall them one at a time.

4. Many times a sequence is determined simply by which hand you lead with going into that sequence. To further simplify the process, you may only need to remember which hand to move off of a rest to begin the next sequence. This will free your mind to focus on climbing, and being present in the moment, rather than worrying about which hand goes next for every single move on the route.

5. Watch other climbers do the route first. For the non-purists that don't mind getting beta, this can be a great way to conserve energy. Simply sit back, let everyone else botch the sequence before it is solved, or even figure out the correct sequence, and the "what not to do's" by witnessing your buddies destroy themselves on a problem. You then casually step up and flash, pre-armed with knowledge of exactly how the problem goes. This will cause your pals to shake their heads at you, but it works.

Essentially reading and climbing a route is like reciting a poem in a foreign language. It is both an expression of your body, and a demonstration of your understanding and mastery of the techniques of climbing. As you progress, and different moves are programmed into your body, sequences come to you more naturally and climbing becomes an expression of the individual. Reading a route is the thinking part of climbing. The execution of it is the act.

There is never a right or a wrong way to climb rock. One brilliant aspect of rock climbing is the creative, inventiveness it allows. I remember a first trip to Smith Rock where the locals had memorized the beta to every single route. When visiting climbers roped up they would be subjected to a spray-down of epic proportions while the local climbers spewed every nuance of every move from the ground to the chains. It may have made sending quickly easier for some, but ultimately it took away from the experience of discovery and self-discover that comes from interacting with a new rock climb or boulder problem. The most important thing to remember when you begin climbing? This moment will only happen once. Enjoy it, be present, relax, and have fun. If you lose the love on the pursuit to the goal, then you really haven't achieved at all.

Now get out there and send!

Understanding Climbing Terminology

2007-09-20T22:00:00.000-07:00

"Dude, just slap up to that sloper, nail the undercling with your left and highstep up to that jib. Then dyno like a rocket!!"

Like many other sports and disciplines, climbing is filled with language that no one else could hope to understand unless they were involved with it. For the new climber this can be confusing to say the least.

Here you'll learn any term you need to know to be able to hang with the best of them. Even more important is that just like understanding words in another language help you understand the culture that it represents, knowing what these strange words mean can help you become a better climber.

While this is a good start, it is by no means comprehensive. Contributions from the climbing community are welcomed, and will be included. Eventually each term will be given its own page with images and/or videos that are linked with a searchable database. Enjoy!

General Terms

Bouldering: This is a type of climbing that typically involves climbing with just shoes, chalk, a pad, and sometimes a friend or group. The climbing focuses on technique and power over endurance on smaller-sized boulders ranging from 5 feet to 25+ feet.

Sport Climbing: This type of climbing takes place on tall rock faces and involves climbing gear like waist harness, rope, belay device, quickdraws, locking carabiners, cordelette, shoes, and chalk.

Trad Climbing: Short for 'traditional climbing' this type of climbing takes place on tall rock faces and usually involves a fair amount of crack climbing. Gear includes waist harness, rope, belay device, belay gloves, hand tape, assorted gear for protecting a fall, locking carabiners, cordelette, shoes, and chalk.

Aid Climbing: This type of climbing involves scaling tall rock faces where ascents are achieved by placing gear on the wall such that it supports the weight of the climber. Gear includes waist harness, rope, belay device, belay gloves, hand tape, assorted gear for protecting a fall, locking carabiners, cordelette, shoes, and chalk.

Types of climbing holds and moves - hands

Flat edge: This is a lip of rock that is usually held best by flattening the fingers along it and pulling down, or in whatever direction the edge is facing for maximum friction.
Sidepull: This is a lip of rock that is held best in the opposite direction the edge is facing.
Undercling: This rock feature is held best by turning the palm and fingers up and cupping the undercling, pulling the body into the hold and engaging the bicep for stability.
Sloper: This is a rounded projection or bulge of rock that must be held by initiating as much surface friction of the hand as possible. Additionally, the rest of the arm must be tucked down under the sloper (or in the opposite direction that the hand is positioned) so as to make the hold as positive as possible.
Jug: This is a huge hold that signifies either a good spot to rest or the finish of a climb.
Crimp: This hold is typified by a small edge that usually can only fit a the pad of your fingertips or less. It is held by placing the pads of however many fingers will fit on it (from 1-4), bearing down so that the fingers are arched over the hold, and then wrapping the thumb over the first joint of the index finger. This creates a 'lock' that allows for an exponential increase in holding power over the crimp.
Gaston: This hold is a side-pulling type of hold that must be held in a position that is similar to opening an elevator door. The elbow is held at a right-angle from the body.
Throw: This move involves dynamically propelling the body in the direction of a hold. It differs from a dyno in that some points of contact are still maintained during the move.

Types of climbing holds and moves – feet

Edge: This is a lip of rock that is best used by placing the first inch or two of climbing show toe-rubber upon it and pushing down to generate friction.
Slab / Slabby: This type of foothold is rounded with no edges for generating easy friction. The climber must place the foot upon it and drop the heel down as low as possible to put as much of the sticky-rubber from the climbing shoe on its surface to generate as much friction as possible.

Smear: This is the act of pressing the foot against a smooth surface and relying on pressure and sticky rubber to keep the foot on.

Toehook: This is an edge of rock that faces away from the climber and can be used to place the top of the foot (from the toe to the top of the ankle) upon. It is engaged by pulling the leg into it to create a 'hook' that will keep the body from swinging out from the wall.
Bicycle: This is a foot placement using both feet. It typically involves a projection of rock or a sequence of two holds that allows for pushing down on one hold, and hooking up with another to create a lock with the feet that holds the climber onto the wall.
Knee scum: This can occur when a climber is unable to step high enough to a foothold, such that they place their knee upon the hold to take the weight of the climber for upward progress.
Heel hook: This is the act of placing the heel of the shoe on a flat edge or large incut. The weight of the climber is then supported by this hook.
Knee bar: This move is the act of engaging the foot and knee such that the knee is braced against another hold in tandem with the foot to create a lock that holds the climber onto the wall.
Jib / nubbin / frontpoint: These are the terms used for very small footholds that only engage the very front edge of the climbing shoe (1 inch or less).

Climbing Slang

Drive-by: This move usually involves some sort of horizontal and/or diagonal dynamic shift from one handhold to another.

Bomber: This is a term given to either A) a piece of climbing gear that is placed in a crack such that it provides excellent protection from a fall or B) a term given to a handhold or foothold that is huge and on really solid rock (unlikely to break off).

Choss / Chossy: This is a term that refers to a dirty rock face or climb that is usually unaesthetically appealing. "That route was a piece of choss. I thought every hold was gonna' break off in my hands!"

Screamer: This term refers to a long fall on a rope.

Beta: This term refers to information about a route.

Problem: This term is used to refer to a climbing route, usually in the context of bouldering. "Did you do that problem? I can't figure it out."

Chopped / Chipped: This term refers to a climbing route that has been subject to manipulation by human hands. It involves creating additional holds in the rock with the use of tools to hack hand or footholds into the rock. It is a controversial act and considered unscrupulous by many climbing communities.

Redpoint: This is a term for the ascent of a climb after having tried the climb at least once before. "I finally redpointed my hardest climb at the end of the season."

V-Grade: This is the prefix given specifically to bouldering grades. It originates from the nickname given to bouldering pioneer John Sherman. He was called 'The Verminator' by many, and as such his routes were given a 'V' grade followed by a number to indicate the difficulty.

Crank: This is a term that means to exert strength. "Set your foot and then crank up to that next hold."

Crater / Deck: This is a term for falling to the ground, usually (but not always) from a dangerous height.

Crux: This is a term given to the most difficult part of a climb. Some climbs can have multiple cruxes.

Deadpoint: This is a term for grabbing a hold at the apex of upward momentum.

Pumped: This is a term for when a climber's forearms are full of lactic acid from exertion and feel bloated and tight.

Typewriter: This is a horizontal movement achieved with a shifting of the hips and is associated with traversing type moves.

Beached Whale: This is a body position achieved when topping out a problem whereby the climber is unable to get their feet high enough such that they flop onto the top-out onto their belly. This is the source of much amusement for the climber and watchers alike.

Dab: This is the term for when a part of the body touches anything else other than the rock they are climbing on (the ground, another rock, a spotter, a tree, etc.). The significance is that the act of touching that other thing momentarily takes the weight of the climber and possibly preventing a fall.

Flash: This refers to completing a problem on the first try, usually with information about how to do the sequence (sighting, friend's advice, watching another climber complete it, etc.). It is usually associated with bouldering.

Onsight: This term refers to completing a climb on the first try with no previous knowledge of the sequences involved. It is usually associated with roped climbing.

Learning To Climb

2007-09-19T09:23:00.000-07:00

Whether you are a beginner climber or a seasoned veteran climber, there is always more opportunity to improve. That's one of the brilliant and captivating aspects of climbing. It is such a basic instinct and yet it never ceases to evolve. Currently there are no notable online resources for those learning how to climb or for those interested in improving their existing technique or power. This is a gap that needs to be filled with a site that will become the 'go to' spot for up-and-coming climbers that want to learn more. This site will continually expand its knowledge base so that any question a climber has about any form of climbing can be answered. Our goal is to create a central point of knowledge and community for all types of climbers. We also strive to be the site where people who want to draw their friends and coworkers into the sport can point to as a great way to get into climbing.